Onsen or Food??

I never thought that Taiwan would be good for onsen. Strangely, I've never had that association in my head. So when I saw the posters (especially in Chinatown station) on trying the different onsen, I felt I just had to put that in my itinerary.
Amazingly, Taiwan has a few onsen spots. Most people would go to Yang Ming San or Beitou (for a more 'sulfuric' experience) for the hotsprings. Me, I chose to go JiaoSi.
According to the tourism site, JiaoSi is described as a 'peaceful, backwater county that has a noticeably slower and more traditional way of life'. That appealed to me immensely.
Being the glutton that I am, the best way to feel that tradition and culture, is through their cuisine. And what an eye opener that was for me!
JiaoSi is really a town in the Yilan County. Their cuisine reflects the Yilan resident's penchant for the natural taste of their seasonal vegetables.

We put up at the Shindori Hotel (山多利大饭店），and had three meals at their Four Seasons Restaurant. I would say that we had probably tasted everything (or at least very close to) on their menu. 　
The most UNFORGETTABLE would have to be their pumpkin fried rice.
Do not be deceived by this unremarkable name. I'd hasten to say, this is the most flavourful and healthy (!) fried rice that I've ever tasted!



Two things - the rice grains are different from what we are familiar with. Locally, we take long grains, they are more coarse and if not properly prepared, it could be dry or worse, soaked with oil. With the Taiwanese rice, it's similar to sushi rice, only that it is less sticky and boy, does it have a sweet aftertaste. Second, the pumpkin, finely shredded, was stir-fried into the rice. Add a dash of black pepper and finely diced coriander and you have fried rice that is fragrant and robust - it's the 'wok-hei' (镬气).

There is also the stir-fried seasonal vegetables - asparagus, abalone mushrooms and carrots. It's lightly stewed, with only salt to season. The veges are so fresh and sweet, there is a decidedly firm crunch to the asparagus and carrots. The gravy, full of the essence of mushrooms and carrots created a wonderful balance of sweet and woodiness. Drizzle it over plan rice and I'd bet it's good enough as a meal on its own!



I'd also recommend their garlic ribs. MMMmmm! What can I say. I love the pungent taste of garlic, and I love pork even more. When the two combines... I'd say I'm in gastronomic heaven! There is nothing to say about this simple dish. The pork was succulent, the garlic, a simple condiment to the dish. The combination simply satisfies.
I'd add a caveat here that people who are used to Singapore's strong flavours and (I recently realised) liberal use of oyster sauce, soy sauce, or any of those MSG-laden seasoning would probably find the Yilan cuisine too light (I would rather say too refined!) for their taste.

Enough on food.
The main purpose of choosing this hotel was because of their hotspring bath. Brace yourself - it's au naturel. Not very common in Taiwan I think, for most allow you to go in with a bathing suit. However, having experienced the therapeutic dips in Japan, I cannot think how else one goes to an Onsen.
The two times I entered, it was empty. The lady manning the desk seemed decidedly bored and visibly brightened when we walked in. She was very helpful in explaining what we should do and how we should drink something cold before going in, etc, etc.
The place was well kept, clean, and definitely worth a visit. The hotel has decent facilities, but I would bring an umbrella next time. For some strange reason, they do not have shelter to the lobby.... I'd also minus points for the staff on duty for not having the presence of mind to bring umbrellas to fetch their guests in, even after the driver honked for their attention.